Surprisingly late start today – the tour company was not picking us up until 9am – indeed it was nearly 9:30 before they arrived. We were picked up in a minivan and driven to the far side of town, where we got on to a large coach for the trip to Peninsula Magallanes to view the Perito Moreno Glacier. We were driven 70km along the shores of Lago Argentino with the last 20 or so km being a slow windy road which worked its way around the peninsula.
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We were dropped off at the end of the road from where we could walk to the balconies – a series of viewing platforms looking out over the Perito Moreno glacier. While not the largest, tallest, highest, fastest, bluest or any other claim to fame – this glacier does have its own unique advantages in that unlike other glaciers in the region, it is not retreating (they are not sure why), and it also juts out across the lake to impact on the shores of the Magallanes Peninsula – which makes for great viewing opportunities.
Unfortunately it had been drizzling all morning – which wasn’t that uncomfortable (although it was quite cold), but it made it a bit tricky to take photos – I had to be very careful to avoid getting the lens wet and having to clean it again and again.
Despite the weather, we spend an hour admiring the glacier – and seeing some spectacular ice falls (no major iceberg calving unfortunately), then headed up to the cafeteria area to eat the lunch we had brought (a lunchbox prepared by the hostel for us). We then got back on the bus and were driven back along the entrance road to a small port where we boarded a boat to cross the lake.
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On the far shore, we met up with our guide and were given a talk about the glacier before being led to the staging area for our trek. At this point, they fitted us with crampons (metal spikes that are strapped to our shoes so we can walk on the ice). We then set off on a 2 hour trek on the glacier itself – being shown various aspects of the glacier with some amazing crevasses and brilliant colours. We were strictly forced to walk in single file to avoid any potential danger from hidden crevasses and sink holes … we had two guides – one leading the way and choosing a safe path, and the other providing support and help as we went. Our main guide was an experienced mountaineer from New Zealand who was living here for 18 months, traveling and working. It was nice to have an English speaking guide (although he also spoke fluent Spanish).
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The trek was hard work – walking on ice takes a bit of effort, and there was a lot of climbing as we went higher up the glacier. The weather didn’t help either – we were rugged up trying to stay warm – but also getting soaked from the constant rain. We both had worn our long thermal underwear, which turned out to be a very wise move – it became very cold on the ice, and the rain thoroughly soaked our pants, but the long underwear kept our legs dry and warm. It was fascinating being on the ice though – a very different experience – such a unique environment.
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When we eventually returned to the refuge I noted a thermometer which read 5 degrees – no wonder we felt cold! By the end of the trek we were quite soaked through from the rain (perhaps we should have spent the extra couple of hundred dollars on Goretex rain jackets!), and we had to wait over an hour for the boat to take us back, so it was a bit uncomfortable, but we had enough layers available to not suffer too much.
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We mostly slept on the bus trip back to town – we arrived back around 7pm and rather than being dropped off at our hostel, we got off in town and headed to the bus station to change our booking to Friday. We then walked back to the hostel and I booked some accommodation in Puerto Natales.
I cooked the food we had bought yesterday – another penne bolognaise – although this turned more into a savoury mince. We had some leftovers (and nowhere to store them), so I offered it to the other guests hanging around the kitchen – one guy was keen and gave two thumbs up on the food – always nice to be appreciated.
Tweets from today
- waiting for space in the kitchen at marcopolo inn el calafate to cook dinner
- 13th February, 2008 7:52 PM from txt
To the site moderato, please read: El Calafate and the Perito Moreno glacier instead of EL and the…
Choose your gear with maximum care. No need to look into expensive stores but be sure to get yourself thermal underwear, waterproof pants, hiking/trekking shoes, waterproof backpack, and all sorts of comfortable polar accessories such as gloves, beanies etc and you’re ready to have fun!!! Remember to wear bright colours for memorable pictures. Ohh and don’t hesitate to indulge into a very nice reflex camera with a good zoom. El Calafate and the Perito Moreno glacier are all worth it. I got back 2 days ago and i will definitely remember this trip forever.
Hi,
The information about layering you’ve provided is very helpful as I’m doing the mini trek mid-April. I would like to get your opinion on shoes for those crampons. Is it necessary to wear a hiking boot that comes up over the ankle (mid size)? I’m wondering whether a trail shoe (North Face) would work with the crampons and the trek. They are waterproof but are cut lower, more like a sneaker. They are very sturdy and comfortable. I’d like to use them, but wonder about how they would work with the crampons and the rigor-ness of trekking on the ice.
This one is for your wife and is about layering: I have a down vest and wonder whether that would be too heavy of a layer to wear for the trek. I’ll have a base layer, merino wool, then another warm pant layer and then over that a windproof, water resistant pant. On top, base merino layer, capilene layer then perhaps a shirt and then a merino type wik jacket underneath a waterproof shell. Like you, I’m on the petite side and get really cold!
Thank you both, your comments and details about your trip are great!!!
~ Jean
I read this post in preparation for our own mini-trek experience, and wanted to thank you for it; it was tremendously helpful! (If you’re curious, here’s my account of our day on the ice…)
Hi Laura,
We were there in the middle of summer and it was a very wet day – quite cold. It was even colder on the ice.
I strongly suggest some type of waterproof shoes if you have them – although the crampons will lift your feet up off the ice, you do tend to get a lot of ice flying around as the crampons dig in when you walk.
We wore thermal pants and tops under our clothes to help keep us warm, and gloves and beanies for the hands and head.
So we had basically two layers on the bottom – thermals and then quick drying travel pants on the outside, and three layers on the top, thermals, mid layer, and waterproof layer (I think my wife may have worn an additional base layer as well). Layers are good if you can remove them easily – although it’s not that easy to do once you are out on the ice.
was happy to stumble upon your website as I have no idea what to wear on the mini-trek and am wondering if you can give me an idea of just how many layers you would advise to wear under waterproof clothing and what kind of shoes you think are best. I tend to be really cold and though the forecast says it’s 50 (Fahrenheit) in El Calafate, I’m sure that standing on a glacier all day cannot feel like 50 degrees!
Thank you!
Hi Heather,
We booked the mini trekking directly through Hielo Y Aventura, who have an office on the main street of El Calafate – http://www.hieloyaventura.com/hieloaventura/index-eng.asp
We stayed at the MarcoPolo Inn, which is a little bit out of town – but then, most of the hostels are. No problem though, since the tour companies pick you up from wherever you are staying!
We got back into town around 7pm or so – so in theory you could get a 9pm flight I guess … bit of a risk in my opinion though.
Came across your website and have a question for you…I plan to do the mini-trek in 2 weeks. Which tour agency did you go through to book it and where did you stay? Also, is it feasible to do it on the day that I have a 9pm flight out that night?
Any help is appreciated
We are back at the library checking you blog.
It is often 5 degrees in this part of the world.
Sounds like you are having a wonderful time.